Remove the shifter linkage from car. The Shifter Stabilizer can remain on the car. This rivet pin will need to be ground down each side of the shifter bracket joint to remove the rivet pin.
Grind down both sides of the rivet, as pictured below. Step 2a. After grinding down both sides of the rivet, pry the shift linkage out of the bracket. Attempting to tap the pin out with a hammer and punch may not work as the rivet pin is larger then the hole opening. Now that the Rivet is removed, you can assemble your Polyurethane bushings for the shifter joint. Add the energy suspension pre-lube to each the exterior of the bushing and the interior of the polyurethane bushing before pressing in.
These energy suspension polyurethane bushings should press in with a bit of resistance for a snug fit. Install the shifter end bushings. Add the energy suspension pre-lube to each the exterior of the OEM sleeve and press it into the polyurethane bushings.
Install Transmission Selector end bushings. Remove OEM shifter stabilizer arm from the transmission. The OEM bushing is a flexible rubber with a internal sleeve. Press out the sleeve by hand or a screw driver. Make sure you remember how it goes back together. Many suspension arms, bushing carriers and brackets are asymmetric. Labeling components with a permanent marker can help save time during reassembly. A mandrel is simply a shaft that is appropriately sized and strong enough to push the bushing from its resting place.
Typically speaking, a socket that is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the bushing works well. A second, larger socket can be placed below the bushing to catch it. Set the piece and the appropriate mandrel into the press and slowly start cranking the handle. Go slowly. Pressing exerts a lot of force, and a flying suspension arm or socket can do some damage to you, your garage or your project.
Wear your safety gear. There are quite a few opinions regarding the best lubricant for new aftermarket bushings. Rubber bushings do not require lubrication, but polyurethane or Delrin versions do. We typically stick with the silicone-based grease that is supplied with most kits. Both of these lubes will work well and last through at least one season of racing.
You might have to periodically pull the pieces apart and relubricate, especially if the car is often driven in wet conditions. The lubricant should be liberally applied to the bushing as well as its housing. Wear gloves. Most replacement performance bushings consist of two halves plus a metal inner sleeve. Fit each bushing half into either side of the receptacle. The metal inner sleeve gives the bushing its strength and allows the pivoting bolt to correctly clamp down.
Coat this steel sleeve with more lubricant and push it through each of the bushing halves. Now you can bolt the part back to the car. The new bushings might make for a tight fit. If this is the case, try using a floor jack to hold the suspension part at its loaded position. Torque all fasteners as needed.
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